Amalfi Coast

What a trip! We started in Rome, then hit up Cortona in Tuscany, then headed down to Naples as our jumping off point to the Amalfi coast. Dramatic scenery, small towns, great transportation options for the most part, great food, some nice beaches, not that many tourists if you work it right. We truly loved it. From Cortona it did take us a car, 2 trains, a cab to grab a Napoli pizza, a cab to the port, a ferry to the island of Capri, a cab to the hotel, and then a walk to the hotel because cars can only get so close…plus 3 out of 3 cabs raped us good and proper… Needless to say we were ready to chill upon arrival and we definitely got what we asked for.

Capri – Capri is basically 2 spots, the marina where everyone goes to the blue grotto, and the town of Capri on top of the hill (there is a funicular that goes straight there for 3 euros so don’t be a dumbass/me and take a cab for 20). The town is gorgeous. Old ass winding roads filled with restaurants, shops and gelato. There are hotels everywhere, there are views everywhere, and unexpectedly but some minor research would tell you that it’s one of the more expensive places on the planet. We are talking rodeo drive, but actually pretty (rodeo drive is surprisingly uggo). We had a great dinner at Giorgino (a recommendation from the super nice hotel lady), had a hell of a time getting there but once we found it and they gave us an amazing table on the patio we were super happy. Walking around these streets at night is a wonderful adventure. It’s so ritzy but so relaxed, it’s a little odd in a good way honestly.

I should also add that the ferry area is no slouch either. Yes there are day trippers everywhere but it’s still fun. The coast is dotted with restaurants and we had a great time just sitting on patios and having some wine and food while people watching.

The main attraction in Capri is the Blue grotto, and it is the dumbest attraction I may have ever been to. All told it costs about 30 euros to wait in a line, take a short boat ride, sit on said boat in the sun for an hour or more, hop on a tiny boat and go into a super dark cave for about 5 minutes with 30 or 40 other boats filled with your closest friends. This is a made up attraction. Its beauty is minimal, and its grandeur is non existent. If you have traveled at all and have seen anything, do yourself a favor, trust the Wikipedia page’s pictures, you’ve now seen the best that this place has to offer. Blue water in a cave…really?! That’s your pitch?!

Positano – Positano itself is very cool, but very steep. We came over on the ferry and while there are porters to take your luggage up to your hotel (10 euros per bag) there are not porters to take YOU up 🙁 our walk was fun actually but I don’t think my parents could do it, for example. Had a great dinner in a private balcony at cafe Positano (like it was a patio built for 2…in a very busy restaurant). Beach club chairs were great but service was nonexistent, though the guy was trying (just bring a bottle of white yourself like our new friends had done). Walking along these streets is just awesome, though tiring. 450 steps to get to one part of our street (though many wrong turns can be made as signage isn’t really a thing here). You can also take the road which is super thin for you and a bus to fit on, but everyone does it, and it just works. La Serinuse hotel was spectacular, but at 1500 a night while we were in Positano we decided to skip it (grand hotels in Europe are expensive and not modern or even that cool outside of their bars and pools. The rooms almost always suuuccckkk, no matter what you spend). We did have some oysters and drinks on their patio and loved the opulence. My girl got some shoes made for her on the spot and was in heaven. The ferry over was easy though it only goes from Capri to here a few times a day. We are taking a car from here to sorrento…80 euros.
One of the things I loved about Positano is the location of many of the hotels.

Because of the walk you don’t want to be too high up, but you do want to be at least half way up the hill. If you can swing a nice patio you will be able to experience everything. Like due to the shape of the valley you can see and hear people on the other side of the mountain face, it’s really quite dramatic. We were also lucky enough to have a pretty sweet storm roll in while we were sitting out there. The lightning over the ocean was spectacular.

Sorrento feels bigger and without proper beaches it can seem like a regular city (while there is a tiny beach, most of the “beaches” are these floating piers with loungers on them, I had never seen that before and it was pretty cool, you do have direct access to the sea, but again it was disjointed so it’s not like you can just walk down the coast and people watch). Even the cliffs are disjointed because of the hotels and resorts dotting them. Sorrento is great, but to avoid a let down I’d do it before the more dramatic locations of the Amalfi coast.

I must give a shout out to them turning the main road into a pedestrian only thoroughfare at night. That’s always a pleasure.

Notes to self:

-A ride along the coast is a must, however you can do it. The buses seemed like hell, driving seemed like hell, so we rented a car and a driver. He was super nice and we got the gist.

-On our most recent trip we took some boat taxis from town to town. It was perfect and well worth the cost.

-Don’t stay in the town of Praiano. Possible the worst town in all of the coast, though I haven’t been to them all. Vertical everything and there really isn’t anything there. The main beach is fine with some restaurants, but it’s best attribute are all the little boats that can take you to other towns 🙂                                                                                                                                          We ate at a couple restaurants more than once, not because they were great, but because it was that annoying to go further. Not a great sign.


Villa Astra Praiano (Aug. 2019)(opens in a new tab)

La Palma Capri (June 2016)

Poseidon Positano (June 2016)

Grand Hotel Royal Sorrento (June 2016)